luang prabang backpacking

A UNESCO world heritage site that is truly justified. Wonderful historic architecture, many Buddhist temples and heavily immersed in culture.  You can get a great feel for the Buddhist monk way of life, chill out and check out wonderful mountains and waterfalls all in Luang Prabang.

Airport to Luang Prabang town

The easiest way to get from the airport to town is taxi. It costs 50,000 kip ($6 USD) and takes about 15 minutes. If you’re willing to test your luck, you can try walking out of the airport and finding a tuk tuk just outside. You should be able to negotiate a fare with a tuk tuk driver for 20,000 kip.

Bus stations to Luang Prabang town

Northern bus station – tuk tuk cost is 20,000 kip
Southern bus station – tuk tuk cost is 10,000 kip. It’s closer and hence cheaper.

Pier to Luang Prabang town

The slow boat drops you off on the Mekong right next to town. You will be within walking distance of most accommodation options. Spicylaos Hostel (hostel recommended by jafatravel.com) may be a bit too far to walk to but a tuk tuk will be 10,000 kip.

Getting around – walking and tuk tuk

Tuk tuks cost 10,000 kip to anywhere in town. Standard flat fee because the town is so small. You should be able to walk around to most places around Luang Prabang without any problems. You can make a half day simply strolling around and checking places out on your way to your destination.

Accommodation

Jafatravel.com recommends Spicylaos Hostel. Jafatravel.com actually has a very tough time deciding whether Spicylaos hostel in Luang Prabang is better than Soi 1 Guesthouse in Bangkok. Both are fantastic hostels!

The common area at Spicylaos is a great meeting place and there is always someone around to chat to. You can easily spend many hours lazing on the cushions, playing Jenga (just don’t lose), watching TV or simply chatting to people and making friends. I made many great friends here whom I travelled to Vang Vieng with. These friends are the ones where you have breakfast, lunch and dinner (as well as heading out) with instead of the ones you simply go out drinking. 

The dorms are clean and the toilet facilities great for Asian standards. Hot water is a bonus.

It is a little expensive (US$8 a night for a dorm bed) but it is all inclusive. Free internet and breakfast from 6am to noon. You won’t have to hunt around for internet or buy breakfast. Although, it is a struggle to wake up by noon at times!

The movie room at Spicylaos is one of the best movie rooms in Asia at a hostel. The surround sound reverberates around the whole hostel (thankfully they stop movies by 11).  The many pirated dvds easily available in town ensure there is much choice available. (dvds go for 15,000 kip each, but I’d purchase them in Thailand or Malaysia if you want better quality dvds)

There are plenty of guesthouses around Luang Prabang which you could stay at but I doubt that they would have the same fun, communal backpacker atmosphere as Spicylaos.

Time of year to go

Jafatravel.com travelled to Luang Prabang in January. This is dry season in Laos. It’s warm during the day (ie shorts and t-shirt weather 25-26 degrees Celsius) and cold in the evenings. People are wearing jeans and tops during the evening but it should be ok with shorts and a top. You won’t need to bother with air-conditioning at your guesthouse during January. Try to make sure you get an extra blanket!

Temples – make sure you check out Wat Xieng Thong

Most of Luang Prabang’s temples are within easy walking distance of each other towards the peninsula formed by the joining of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Spend at least half a day walking around just checking out the temples. After travelling through other Asian cities, you may be templed out if you spend much longer. But it is a relaxing half day taking it easy walking around.

Wat Xieng Thong is Luang Prabang’s most historic temple. Make sure you visit Wat Xieng Thong if it is the only temple you visit in Luang Prabang. Entry costs 20,000 kip.

Entry to other popular temples are roughly 10,000 to 20,000 kip.  Some are free but aren’t as well maintained.

Looking at the temples and observing the monks make for a great way to spend a day.

Monks & Buddhism

Luang Prabang is the place where you can absorb the culture of Buddhism and see monks go about their daily lives. Spicylaos hostel runs a weekly talk on Tuesday at 5pm about Buddhism and monks. It’s free for all to attend (you don’t need to be staying at Spicylaos). Pong, the director, gives a terrific talk which provides you with interesting, accurate information and allows you to appreciate how the monks live. He also gives you many hints about giving food to the monks at their daily procession.

Giving food to the monks

At 5am (6am during the winter months ie January) the monks make their daily procession around town collecting food. The monks live their lives off the generosity of others and only eat what is given to them. Many locals give sticky rice and it is best to give them dried preserved food (canned food, instant noodles etc). The monks receive enough fresh food each day in order for you to give them preserved food. And if I were a monk, I’d be sick of sticky rice every single day!

Males can stand whilst giving food to the monks but women must kneel or be seated. This has to do with the Buddhist rules and traditions.

Please try to be respectful of the monks. I see many tourists taking photos of the monks a metre or two away. They are just going about their daily lives and aren’t an exhibition or tourist show.

Money in Luang Prabang

There are ATMs on the main street so you can withdraw money quite easily. But beware, the charges may be quite extensive.

It’s best to use kip for everyday cash transactions. Only some vendors accept US dollars or Thai Baht. And if they do accept the foreign currency, the exchange rate back to kip may be quite poor compared to a money changer.

Money changers are quite regular (your guesthouse may even change it for you – Spicylaos does). Best rates are given for the major currencies, especially US dollars and Thai Baht.

Visa for Lao in Luang Prabang

If you are flying in, you can obtain a visa on arrival at Luang Prabang airport. I actually had mine organised before my flight and was the first one through, first to collect my bag and leave the airport. Not too special given there was about 30 people on my flight from Bangkok.

jafatravel.com visited Luang Prabang in January 2009.

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© Jafa Travel Pty Ltd 2008